Blur & Camera Control

Camera controls:

William Klein:

Slow-Sync Flash

Slow-sync Flash:

Slow Sync Flash is a function found on many cameras that tells your camera to shoot with both a longer shutter speed as well as firing the flash. It helps you keep your subject sharp while capturing motion or a dark background.

Image Bank:

The setting used when trying the technique:

when trying this technique i used the same setting as the multi-flash, a dark studio with a snoot on the light. My camera settings on my camera were different from what came up on the light meter. The light meter came up as f stop 5.6 however set the camera to f.8 as the aperture would be better. I set the shutter speed to 2 seconds and ISO 200

Final Images:

Multiple Flash

Multiple exposure: is a photography technique of combining two or numerous separate exposures into one.

Multi-flash is a type of photography where the subject is photographed moving as a bright flash is on, creating a sequence of the movement.
To do this technique you need to use a black screen or backdrop to keep the movement of the person distinguished. Have two flashes on the set as they naturally make the scene brighter. However, try to keep them at least 6 inches apart; this way, you don't end up with too much additional light concentrated in one area of the photo, which causes glare in your image. Multiple flashes typically are better used when they're located far away from each other.

Image Bank:

What you need:
A dSLR on manual settings (set from 2-10″ or bulb exposure)-Because you’re using flash, the aperture setting is the most important in this technique. As long as your shutter speed is slower than your camera’s flash sync-speed, aperture is what controls how the flash exposure is recorded, and it also dictates what power output to set on your flash. I suggest using an aperture somewhere between f/8 and f/16, to get the best results. A smaller aperture will also help to minimise the effect of any ambient light in your images.

-A very dark room (or nighttime outdoors)

-A tripod

-A human subject

-A strobe or flashgun (speed-light) with a test button (to manually fire the flash)

-Someone to serve as an extra pair of hands (not required but it helps a lot)

Eadweard MuyBridge:

Eadweard Muybridge was an English-American photographer important for his pioneering work in photographic studies of motion, and early work in motion-picture projection. He adopted the first name Eadweard as the original Anglo-Saxon form of Edward, and the surname Muybridge, believing it to be similarly archaic.In 1874 Muybridge shot and killed Major Harry Larkyns, his wife's lover, but was acquitted in a jury trial on the grounds of justifiable homicide.

The settings used when trying the technique:

In this technique i used a soft box flash with the settings of: 

• Shutter speed 4 seconds
• ISO 200
• F16 22

Final images:

Evaluation:

I think this technique worked out well. However if i was going to do this again i would make the model space out more so that the images are not clumped or chaotic. I liked how this technique presents the different motions in the movement, including the facial expressions making the dark image (in terms of tones and colours) happy.

Location portraiture photography

Lighting on location can often influence the way a photograph is taken.

Adjusting the aperture to obtain a shallow (narrow) depth of field is often used.  This has the following advantages:

• Can be used to throw the background out of focus
• Will allow you to shoot in dimmer lighting conditions as the shutter speeds at say f4.0, f 5.6, f 8 will be faster compared to shooting at f16, f22.
• If you struggle with image blur change the ISO from 200 to e.g. 400 or 800.   This will also allow you to operate at higher shutter speeds in order to freeze movement.
• You may choose to operate the camera in manual focus mode and try to get a sharp focus by focussing on the eyes or face.
• If you struggle with harsh shadows you may choose to use a reflector to bounce light back onto a subject… this can be quite effective however you will need to have an assistant working with you.

Image Bank:

How i tried the technique:

I selected a location for my model to stand in and set my tripod up. I then took photos at different f stops to change the depth of field. I used f4, f8 and f.16. Th object of the test was to show how the higher the f stop the more focused the background would be.

My images:

Evaluation:

The photos weren't my best and the technique didn't wont the way it was meant too. Due to borrowing a camera, I wasn't familiar with the way to use it. This meant the ISO and the focus was off. Instead of the focus being on the model, the focus was on the roof in the background behind her. This meant that i didnt get the effect of the background and depth of field change i would have liked. For example, in the first photo below, the f stop is 4. The second photo is f stop 8, you can tell the depth of field theory has worked as the model is more in focused on the second image.
If i was to do this again I would make sure the model is the focus point.

Macro Photography

A macro photograph is one in which the size of the subject on the negative or image sensor is life size or greater, although most of the time we will end up looking at a large size image of a really small insect or flower, for example.

Technique

•       Most camera manufactures sell Macro lens which allow photographers to expand the image to greater than 1:1… these lens’ are quite expensive, alternatively learners can use the camera in macro mode if available (this may not be as effective as a dedicated lens).
•         Use point of focus OR manual focus
•        Use A TRIPOD to frame the object and background, apply compositional rules where possible.
•         Experiment with depth of field, you will be very close to your subject which results in a sudden drop off on focus, to overcome this you might want to maximize your depth of field therefore shoot at f 16 f22.b In other circumstances you may like the drop off in focus in which case use a lower f stop e.g. 4.0
•         Work with a low/medium ISO from 100 to 400
•          Apply manual exposure and the exposure meter to ensure that the subject is adequately exposed.
•          In some case you may choose to use flash light

Task:

·         In the studio I used the Nikon camera with Macro lens to shoot the image below. The setting were 1/125, f/16 and ISO 200. With a focal length of 105.00 mm

     Contact sheet:

    Edit:

     To edit this picture i Burn and dodged with curves on the Iris. I also did this on the corner of the eye to add a highlight. I found that there was a loose eyelash on her cheek when editing so i used the clone stamp to copy her skin over it, to make the image look more appealing as shown below.

      Final Image:

    Evaluation:

   I liked this technique cause i found that the opportunity to edit the details in the eye his something I've never been able to achieve before. If i had my own Macro lens i would try to do this more often. If i was to do this again i would make sure I got more varied photos and would take more appealing photos of the necklace etc.

Wide-Angle & Telephoto Photography.

•      Definition of the technique:

Wide angle lenses (short focal length) capture more because they have a wider picture angle.

Telephoto lenses (long focal length) have a narrower picture angle.
In photography and cinematography, a wide-angle lens refers to a lens whose focal length is substantially smaller than the focal length of a normal lens for a given film plane

•      An image Bank which illustrates the technique

Typical focal lengths and their 35mm format designations:

<20mm =  Super wide angle
24mm-35mm = wide angle
50mm= normal
80mm-300mm = Tele
>300mm = super Tele

How the images were produced:

We set the location for the model to stand and then set the settings to:

zoom: 18mm 

shutter:1/1250

f stop: 3.5

ISO 200 

we then moved further and further back keeping the settings to show the wide angle/ fishbowl effect.

The images:

Evaluation:

If i was to do this technique again i would make sure the setting was better and the photos were more in focus as i only had two good pictures come out of it. I didn't like this technique as it distorts the real image.

Sequencing

 Definition of Sequencing:

By definition, a sequence is a serial arrangement in which things follow in logical order or a recurrent pattern. Photo sequencing is actually stitching multiple images together and it is a form of time-lapse photography. A change in an object’s position over time is being displayed and it only works when the object moves across a static background.

•     Image Bank:

•      Equipment& settings:

Tripod
Fast shutter speed
Manual camera settings (to fix the exposure)- ISO 200-400 if outside
Manual focus
No Camera shake (be careful when pressing the button).
Direct the shoot (composition/framing and where the moving elements will move from and to
are important.
Photo-editing software 

o   Straight Images 

My Attempt At Sequencing: 

· Equipment used:
    To take my photos I used a Nikon D3100, a tripod and a model. I\ then edited my pictures on photoshop, by layering the pictures and masking them. By masking them, i was able to hide certain parts of each image to make the sequence not overlap. Below is screenshots of my editing.

·    Camera Settings:
     shutter speed: 1/125    f/4.5      ISO: 100      Zoom: 30mm
   
    Evaluation:
    When going to edit my photos i found that it would be hard to create a sequence that was good, as the photos overlapped and the model was in one position throughout the pictures. Due to not having any other good photos from my shoot, i decided to go ahead with it and try to make it look good. If i was to do this again, I would change the action and make it landscape.